Tuscany: Hilltops and Cork Pops
Now that our Roman holiday was over, it was on to the next spot, Montepulciano, a town in the Tuscany region known for its rich-flavored red wine, Nobile de Montepulciano. Up to this point, we did not have a car because we wanted to avoid the crazy streets of Rome and Amalfi. As we headed north, however, our next destinations were either manageable from a driving perspective or not as accessible by train. To make transportation easy, we decided to pick up a rental car. Rather than navigating the busy streets of Rome, we took a 45-minute train to Orvieto, a small village to the north, where we completed paperwork for our Fiat 500 at a Hertz dealership just 5-minutes walk from the train station. I definitely recommend this approach, as it lead to a super easy, stress-free drive on to Montepulciano.
We used the Autostrada, Italy's expressway, for a more direct route, and quickly learned that less than an hour on this road can lead to 10 euros of tolls, but the ease and convenience was worth it.
Arriving to our "agriturismo", or farm stay, right at the base of the hillside of Montepulicano, we were soon greeted by the owners of Agriturismo Nobile. Since our room wasn't ready, due to our early arrival, they offered to drive us into town to get some lunch and explore the city. We were marveling at the ivy walls, orchards and magnificent view of the city, and had no idea this place also offered shuttle services!
The town was a lovely, charming village with Etruscan wine cellars and traditional Italian restaurants. And while it still had plenty of American tourists, it was a welcome change from Rome. We walked around a bit, exploring the side streets, shops and views, and then chose a seat outside of a restaurant where we enjoyed white wine, bruschetta, a mushroom crepe and people watching. We explored some of the wineries in town, which were quite different than wineries we've visited before. You could stroll up to the old, stone storefront, and take a self-guided tour of the cellars below. Then, if you'd like, you could finish with a tasting. This is just what we did at Contucci Cellars, which has been around since 1000 AD (according to its website), and Talosa Winery. After having been to Napa less than a year before, this pace of tour was much more our style. Less obtrusive, more authentic and hyper-focused on the wine, as we saw in our vineyard tour the next day.
We then gave our agriturismo a ring, they picked us up and we headed back to get settled in our room, enjoy the pool and soak up the Tuscan sun with some recently purchased white wine.
To top off the evening and wonderful first day in this region, we headed back into town for dinner at Osteria Acquacheta, a Rick Steve's recommendation. This restaurant is well-known for its Florentine Steaks (Bistecca alla Fiorentina), which is cut from Chianina, an Italian breed of cattle. Because the town of Montepulciano is smaller, and this restaurant is quite well-known, it is always busy. That said, the staff has the service organized and down to a science. Reservations for either the 7pm or 9pm slot should be made a few days in advance to ensure seating. We reserved the earlier time slot and arrived at 7pm sharp, joining a handful of other tourists waiting outside the front doors. In retrospect, we would've liked to have had the later time, as that is when the locals come and it is the proper time for Italian dinner. Due to the later start, there is also no set time to leave, and patrons presumably mingle longer for coffee and other "digestivos".
Our name was soon called and we were taken to our table, immediately asked what we wanted to drink and were immersed in the menu. We opted for the house wine (6 euros vs. 15+ for a select "bottle") and then began to pick out our food. We knew we wanted the steak, of course, but we also got some antipasta and a pasta dish. After enjoying those amazing courses, and getting quite full, it was time to order the steak. The owner came to our table, asked us how big of a cut we wanted and we made a gesture with our hands, indicating that we would be sharing it as most tables do. He then went to the back of the restaurant, hacked off a piece of meat with a large clever, and came to our table confirming our cut. He told us how much it weighed, wrote down the price, and we gave a thumbs up that it was good to go (we really had no idea what he said, but we weren't going to tell him it was too big). After a quick sizzle in the wood-fired oven, our steak was delivered, medium rare, and it looked delicious.
A table near us was full of Texans and disgracefully asked the owner to cook it medium for them, to which the owner replied, "How about you try it my way. . .you don't like, we cook more." After a few bites they sent it back to be cooked longer. The owner is a professional; this is his craft, and he knows what he's doing, so it was quite unfortunate to see Americans having to have the experience their particular way, catered to their exact needs. We were half-expecting them to ask for A1 sauce next!
We continued to enjoy the meal, made quite a large dent in the steak, and then wobbled out of the restaurant to enjoy the lovely evening. Our entire meal cost 82 euros and contained:
We used the Autostrada, Italy's expressway, for a more direct route, and quickly learned that less than an hour on this road can lead to 10 euros of tolls, but the ease and convenience was worth it.
Arriving to our "agriturismo", or farm stay, right at the base of the hillside of Montepulicano, we were soon greeted by the owners of Agriturismo Nobile. Since our room wasn't ready, due to our early arrival, they offered to drive us into town to get some lunch and explore the city. We were marveling at the ivy walls, orchards and magnificent view of the city, and had no idea this place also offered shuttle services!
 |
| Our agriturismo with Montepulciano in the background |
The town was a lovely, charming village with Etruscan wine cellars and traditional Italian restaurants. And while it still had plenty of American tourists, it was a welcome change from Rome. We walked around a bit, exploring the side streets, shops and views, and then chose a seat outside of a restaurant where we enjoyed white wine, bruschetta, a mushroom crepe and people watching. We explored some of the wineries in town, which were quite different than wineries we've visited before. You could stroll up to the old, stone storefront, and take a self-guided tour of the cellars below. Then, if you'd like, you could finish with a tasting. This is just what we did at Contucci Cellars, which has been around since 1000 AD (according to its website), and Talosa Winery. After having been to Napa less than a year before, this pace of tour was much more our style. Less obtrusive, more authentic and hyper-focused on the wine, as we saw in our vineyard tour the next day.
 |
| Talosa Wine Cellar |
We then gave our agriturismo a ring, they picked us up and we headed back to get settled in our room, enjoy the pool and soak up the Tuscan sun with some recently purchased white wine.
To top off the evening and wonderful first day in this region, we headed back into town for dinner at Osteria Acquacheta, a Rick Steve's recommendation. This restaurant is well-known for its Florentine Steaks (Bistecca alla Fiorentina), which is cut from Chianina, an Italian breed of cattle. Because the town of Montepulciano is smaller, and this restaurant is quite well-known, it is always busy. That said, the staff has the service organized and down to a science. Reservations for either the 7pm or 9pm slot should be made a few days in advance to ensure seating. We reserved the earlier time slot and arrived at 7pm sharp, joining a handful of other tourists waiting outside the front doors. In retrospect, we would've liked to have had the later time, as that is when the locals come and it is the proper time for Italian dinner. Due to the later start, there is also no set time to leave, and patrons presumably mingle longer for coffee and other "digestivos".
Our name was soon called and we were taken to our table, immediately asked what we wanted to drink and were immersed in the menu. We opted for the house wine (6 euros vs. 15+ for a select "bottle") and then began to pick out our food. We knew we wanted the steak, of course, but we also got some antipasta and a pasta dish. After enjoying those amazing courses, and getting quite full, it was time to order the steak. The owner came to our table, asked us how big of a cut we wanted and we made a gesture with our hands, indicating that we would be sharing it as most tables do. He then went to the back of the restaurant, hacked off a piece of meat with a large clever, and came to our table confirming our cut. He told us how much it weighed, wrote down the price, and we gave a thumbs up that it was good to go (we really had no idea what he said, but we weren't going to tell him it was too big). After a quick sizzle in the wood-fired oven, our steak was delivered, medium rare, and it looked delicious.
 |
| The chef is in the very back cutting our meat. |
A table near us was full of Texans and disgracefully asked the owner to cook it medium for them, to which the owner replied, "How about you try it my way. . .you don't like, we cook more." After a few bites they sent it back to be cooked longer. The owner is a professional; this is his craft, and he knows what he's doing, so it was quite unfortunate to see Americans having to have the experience their particular way, catered to their exact needs. We were half-expecting them to ask for A1 sauce next!
We continued to enjoy the meal, made quite a large dent in the steak, and then wobbled out of the restaurant to enjoy the lovely evening. Our entire meal cost 82 euros and contained:
- Liver pate
- Hot cheese with truffle
- Picci with truffle (pasta)
- Steak Fiorentina
- 1 liter of red wine
- 2 espressos
It was quite a deal, compared to how much that whole list would cost at a "proper" steakhouse in the US.
 |
| Quite the hunk (of meat)! |
The following morning we awoke and took our time wandering around the property. We walked through the vineyards, ate breakfast and Kent took a swim.
We then headed to Boscarelli vineyards, a winery Kent had researched ahead of time and made a reservation at. Since we both wanted to enjoy some wine, our lovely hosts drove us to the vineyard and picked us up for a small fee. The drive outside of town was gorgeous, and after about 10 minutes we came upon the unassuming, charming winery.
The other party in our tour group did not show, so Kent and I got a personal tour and explanation of the wine-making process. As mentioned earlier, this was quite the departure from a Napa wine tour. First of all, it was reasonably priced. Second of all, the grape vines and terrain were the main attraction, and the building was small and clearly not the focus. In Napa, the cellars and buildings were the main attraction, and we never once ventured into the vineyards.
Our guide took us to the vines, told us how they are pruned each year, explained the elevation, and listed the different requirements for a wine to be DOCG certified and considered a proper Nobile de Montepulciano. Some of the smallest details, like the level of grass between the vines, is such a focus for them, as it determines how much water and sunlight the roots receive. Sometimes, they even apply a mold to the vines and grass, as that helps keep bugs at bay while still being amicable to the vines, unlike a pesticide. It was so interesting and was a clear reminder that the wineries in this region have been doing it for many years, long before tourism, therefore they are focused on doing it properly.
After a tour of the fields and fermentation tanks, we tasted a few Nobiles and the rarer vintage, purchased a bottle of our favorite and enjoyed it alongside a cheese and salami plate, overlooking the vineyards. It was quite idyllic and welcoming, as you felt as though you were at someone's home (which we were) rather than a well-known vineyard.
Heading back to our agriturismo, we enjoyed the pool a bit more and then got ready for our cooking class, at another agriturismo, Villa Cicolina. Kent drove us to this location, and we were in awe as soon as we arrived. It was a lovely house, with a well-manicured lawn and an infinity pool overlooking the Tuscan valley. We immediately wished we had stayed here, however it was quite a bit more pricey.
We lusted at the ridiculous scenery, and then put on our aprons to begin our cooking class. We were joined by one other couple from Boston, and were tasked with helping the Italian speaking chef, Rosa, (and her translator) make dinner for the on-site restaurant that evening. It's quite a small restaurant, so only food for about 14 people.
We helped cut some vegetables for a delicious salad, and Kent got off to a great start by butchering his cucumber, and making the chef question his capabilities. He redeemed himself as we moved on to making dessert. We then helped wrap some steaks in pancetta and began the pasta making. We made Picci, rolling dough into long, shoestring-like strips, before boiling them and topping with pecorino cheese, to make one of our favorite dishes, cacio e pepe.
After helping prep for dinner, the chefs took over the kitchen once more and finalized everything, cooking the meat, and making fresh salad, as we went to relax by the pool with a glass of sparkling wine. Once dinner was ready, we headed back into the restaurant and were blown away by how good our food was.
This was also the night of the Champions League final, which Liverpool was playing in—a huge deal to Kent. We thought we may have time to go into town and watch, however we were barely through the antipasta at the start of the game. He asked if there was a TV he could use in the building, after finishing our meal, but it was not working. Luckily, the server had the game playing on the radio (in Italian commentary), and would come out to give us updates after each goal was scored. Once other dining guests have left, the server eventually joined us near our table and watched along on Kent's iPhone. While this was not the ideal watching scenario, and although Liverpool lost the match 3-1, it was a memorable experience nonetheless.
After thanking our hosts one last time, we headed back to pack-up and get ready for the next day.
Travel Tips:
1. Stay at an agriturismo. It's an idyllic way to stay in the countryside, while still having easy access to town. Most agriturismos may offer transportation as well, or have an on-site restaurant.
2. Shop around for cooking classes. It was an enjoyable experience, however it was quite expensive. I'm sure there may be others in the area that are more affordable, or may teach you just how to make pasta, rather than helping with each course.
3. Don't try to do too much in one day. Originally, we had discussed visiting two wineries and a cooking class in a day, however that would have been too much. Take time to enjoy the area and swim in the pool, rather than jumping from one winery to the next. If you really want to visit a handful of places, be sure to stay in this region 3-4 days minimum.
The other party in our tour group did not show, so Kent and I got a personal tour and explanation of the wine-making process. As mentioned earlier, this was quite the departure from a Napa wine tour. First of all, it was reasonably priced. Second of all, the grape vines and terrain were the main attraction, and the building was small and clearly not the focus. In Napa, the cellars and buildings were the main attraction, and we never once ventured into the vineyards.
Our guide took us to the vines, told us how they are pruned each year, explained the elevation, and listed the different requirements for a wine to be DOCG certified and considered a proper Nobile de Montepulciano. Some of the smallest details, like the level of grass between the vines, is such a focus for them, as it determines how much water and sunlight the roots receive. Sometimes, they even apply a mold to the vines and grass, as that helps keep bugs at bay while still being amicable to the vines, unlike a pesticide. It was so interesting and was a clear reminder that the wineries in this region have been doing it for many years, long before tourism, therefore they are focused on doing it properly.
After a tour of the fields and fermentation tanks, we tasted a few Nobiles and the rarer vintage, purchased a bottle of our favorite and enjoyed it alongside a cheese and salami plate, overlooking the vineyards. It was quite idyllic and welcoming, as you felt as though you were at someone's home (which we were) rather than a well-known vineyard.
 |
| Wine and cheese with a view! |
We lusted at the ridiculous scenery, and then put on our aprons to begin our cooking class. We were joined by one other couple from Boston, and were tasked with helping the Italian speaking chef, Rosa, (and her translator) make dinner for the on-site restaurant that evening. It's quite a small restaurant, so only food for about 14 people.
We helped cut some vegetables for a delicious salad, and Kent got off to a great start by butchering his cucumber, and making the chef question his capabilities. He redeemed himself as we moved on to making dessert. We then helped wrap some steaks in pancetta and began the pasta making. We made Picci, rolling dough into long, shoestring-like strips, before boiling them and topping with pecorino cheese, to make one of our favorite dishes, cacio e pepe.
 |
| Kneading the pasta dough with Rosa in the background |
After helping prep for dinner, the chefs took over the kitchen once more and finalized everything, cooking the meat, and making fresh salad, as we went to relax by the pool with a glass of sparkling wine. Once dinner was ready, we headed back into the restaurant and were blown away by how good our food was.
This was also the night of the Champions League final, which Liverpool was playing in—a huge deal to Kent. We thought we may have time to go into town and watch, however we were barely through the antipasta at the start of the game. He asked if there was a TV he could use in the building, after finishing our meal, but it was not working. Luckily, the server had the game playing on the radio (in Italian commentary), and would come out to give us updates after each goal was scored. Once other dining guests have left, the server eventually joined us near our table and watched along on Kent's iPhone. While this was not the ideal watching scenario, and although Liverpool lost the match 3-1, it was a memorable experience nonetheless.
After thanking our hosts one last time, we headed back to pack-up and get ready for the next day.
 |
| Kent watching the game. |
Travel Tips:
1. Stay at an agriturismo. It's an idyllic way to stay in the countryside, while still having easy access to town. Most agriturismos may offer transportation as well, or have an on-site restaurant.
2. Shop around for cooking classes. It was an enjoyable experience, however it was quite expensive. I'm sure there may be others in the area that are more affordable, or may teach you just how to make pasta, rather than helping with each course.
3. Don't try to do too much in one day. Originally, we had discussed visiting two wineries and a cooking class in a day, however that would have been too much. Take time to enjoy the area and swim in the pool, rather than jumping from one winery to the next. If you really want to visit a handful of places, be sure to stay in this region 3-4 days minimum.
 |
| Our picci |
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