A Walk Upon Dracula's Shores

 Whitby and Staithes, April 15-18, 2022: We’re writing this two months after the trip, but here’s a recap of our time on the Yorkshire Coast.

We had this trip planned for quite some time. Before leaving the States, we booked a place in Yorkshire to take advantage of the four-day Easter holiday. Kent knew about Whitby from reading Dracula–as the town backdrops many vampire hauntings in Bram Stoker’s famous novel. We had also become aware of the quaint fishing villages nearby, including one called Staithes, whose picturesque setting has made the rounds on Instagram.

Setting out from Manchester Piccadilly station on Friday morning, getting to the Northeast was a bit of a chore: two crowded trains, a quick stop at York (which we can’t wait to see more of), and then two buses. This is a common theme with our trips, as getting to some of the more remote parts of England is possible but requires patience, without a car. 

After a few hours’ commute, we arrived in Whitby and quickly realized how busy it was going to be on this particular weekend. Leading up to Easter weekend, Sara had read that Whitby is a common place for the English to holiday this time of year, so we were expecting the worst. And, indeed, it was quite crowded. Wandering through its cobbled streets during peak hours, we soon decided to escape the bustle and head to Staithes where we had (wisely) booked accommodation.

Overlooking the village of Staithes

Our AirBnb on the left

Compared to lively Whitby, Staithes is a hushed little fishing enclave with three pubs, an ice cream shop, and a family-run tea house. The colorful houses, red-tiled roofs, and their backdrop of sea and Moors gave us a, “This is why we moved here” moment. On our arrival, we checked into a quaint Airbnb, walked through the High Street, and enjoyed some seafood at The Captain Cook Inn.

This stretch of the Yorkshire coast is famous for being the childhood home of British explorer James Cook, recorded as the first European to make contact with the Eastern coastline of Australia and the Hawaiian Islands. Interestingly, an original statue of Cook, perched high above Whitby harbor, has replicas in various places he explored, including one we picnicked underneath in Waimea, Hawaii back in June 2021. 

Captain Cook statue in Whitby

Aside from its rich maritime history, this area is equally renowned for its walking routes, nestled along the rolling-hills of the Yorkshire Moors National Park. We began Saturday morning with a long walk, enjoying the ocean views, rugged cliffs and green pastures. From Staithes harbor, you can also walk out on the exposed rocks during low-tide, getting a great view looking back at the town.

Out on the rocks, looking back at Staithes

After our walk, we decided to head back into Whitby and stay through till evening when it’s a bit quieter. Getting from Staithes to Whitby required an adventurous 25-minute bus ride. Snaking alongside the Yorkshire cliffs, local bus drivers seemed to treat it as a video game, excelling so fast you find yourself holding on or laughing nervously throughout the ride. 

Saturday in Whitby was busy as expected. So while we walked around the streets a bit, we quickly got overwhelmed. What exaggerates the feeling of crowdedness is the fact that the River Esk divides the town in half, with only a small footbridge connecting the North Harbor from the South. Throughout much of the weekend, this was the site of a constant pedestrian traffic jam. 

The biggest attraction in Whitby is the ancient Abbey, which towers over the town from the Southern cliffs and can be seen from miles away as you approach the city. It’s quite majestic, as this massive Gothic ruin sits eerily over the North Sea. Undoubtedly, it was a factor in inspiring the vampire tales for which it is now famous.

To get there, you hike up 199 steps and earn a rewarding view of the city and sea below. After ascending, we decided not to pay an admission fee for the Abbey, as you can get quite a good view from the outer walls. Instead, we opted for a pint at Whitby Brewery. The beer was good, and we shared a table with some folks from Manchester while taking in one of the best views we’ve had at a brewery.

Perfect backdrop when enjoying a pint

That evening, we originally planned on enjoying a sitdown dinner, but were ready to head back to Staithes a bit early to get out of the crowds. Changing our plans, we got a fish n’ chips (another Whitby staple) and then took the bus back into Staithes. 

On Easter morning, we took the bus into Whitby early and started a hike from Whitby to Robin Hood’s Bay. This 6 mile hike was something we had planned for a while, as it’s a well-frequented path along The Cleveland Way, a national footpath. The hike was easy, at least compared to what we’re used to, but offered sweeping views of farmland and sea. 

Walking up the steps near the Abbey to start the hike

We arrived to Robin Hood’s Bay, which is another well-visited town along the coast. Sitting on a large beach, the little town was buzzing with tourists. We enjoyed lunch on a sea-view patio at The Cove and then walked along the few mazy streets. It’s mostly one main road with small shops, so you can walk around in a matter of 15 minutes. Afterwards, we found ourselves at the Victoria Hotel and enjoyed some tea with another ocean view and a bit of sunshine.

Robin Hood's Bay

Finally, we set off back to Whitby, and then on to Staithes where we enjoyed a meal at The Cod and Lobster, a picturesque pub sitting right on Staithes Bay. It’s a lively atmosphere since it’s only one of three pubs in the area. Everyone squeezes in for a pint and warm meal. That’s the thing about Staithes–it is quite a touristy spot (despite its size), so many of the houses and flats in town are rental units versus permanent homes for locals. That is a challenge facing many villages along this coast. People that want to live there struggle to afford a place, due to the properties getting bought up for tourism.

Coffee at Dotty's Tea Room

On Monday, we enjoyed a slow morning, ordering a scone and breakfast at our favorite teahouse in town, Dotty’s Vintage Tea Room. Then, it was back on the bus to head into Whitby once more. After a quick last walk around the area, we took our final bus into Scarborough where our train set off. Scarborough is a larger resort town that is popular among Brits. We even heard it sarcastically referred to as “Scarbados” on one occasion. In fairness, the town does have a large sweeping beach, a castle of its own, and many different arcades and attractions along the seafront making it a family vacation destination. 

As we often do with travel, we had some “time to kill” before our train, or maybe we should say “time to take advantage of”, so we enjoyed a final stroll along the beach watching the locals and the brave few who jumped into the cold ocean. After that, we headed to the station and made our way back to Manchester. 

On the beach in Scarborough

Travel Tips:

• Avoid a bank holiday weekend or stay in a smaller village like Staithes. Staithes gets a bit busier during the day, but is nothing like Whitby.

• A car would definitely be preferable, but if you’re patient and open to using buses, it was still quite easy to get around the area.

• Take some walks along the coast! It’s something this area is known for, so definitely take advantage of the charming villages and nature.

• As we’re learning everywhere, consider getting reservations for dinner if possible. We didn’t need them in Staithes as much, but with how busy Whitby was, that could definitely be necessary.