Spring in Southern Spain
Almeria and Granada, Spain, April 30 - May 3 2022: We’re writing this two months after the trip, but here’s a recap of our time in Southern Spain.
Spain is one of those places that people rave about, describing it with almost mystic qualities. But you can’t really understand Spain until you experience it for yourself–at least that’s how Kent felt. Sara and her sisters–having all spent time in southern Spain during a semester abroad–will occasionally reminisce on the vibrant culture, tapas bars, “tinto de verano” and the easy-going lifestyle that is central to this part of the world. It was this type of reminiscing that led us to search for cheap flights to Almeria, a less frequented Spanish city, where Sara spent her semester abroad in 2013.
Landing in the sunshine and warm ocean breeze was a nice break from British weather which–though not as bad as its reputation would have you believe–is certainly a far cry from Spain. We took a cab to our hotel, located in the old town of Almeria, and Sara pointed out landmarks she remembered from previous travels. It’s amazing how, after almost a full decade, most of the city has stayed the same.
After a classic breakfast of “pan con papas” (potato omelet on bread), and churros with chocolate dip for Kent, we headed out to get lost in the streets of old town. In actuality, Almeria is so small that it’s difficult to get lost–especially with the vast Mediterranean serving as a constant point of reference. With retrospect, Almeria’s approachable size and accessibility may be some of its best features for first-time visitors to Spain.
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| Plaza in the old town of Almeria |
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| Kent with his churros and chocolate |
We walked on the beach, stumbled upon old churches in the city center, and drank even more coffee–a favorite activity for us on holiday! That evening, we headed to the Alcazaba, a Moorish castle sitting atop the hill of Almeria. This structure, a relic from southern Spain’s pre-Catholic history, was originally a defensive citadel for the medieval Arab kingdom of Ta'ifa al-Mariyah. Due to Almeria’s proximity to northern Africa–just across the Alboran Sea–there is also a rich influence of Moroccan cuisine near this area. Naturally, we found ourselves resting at a family-run tea house near the base of the castle, enjoyed a mint tea and plate of hummus, then climbed the final steps to the Alcazaba. Free to enter, we were able to enjoy gardens, water features, original fortress ruins and views of Almeria’s port.
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| On top of the Alcazaba |
That evening we decided to belly up to a local tavern, Casa Puga, and take in an authentic tapas experience. We arrived right when it opened at 8:30pm and there was a line of locals waiting out the door (always a good sign). This place, which Kent found recommended online, is the idyllic Spanish taverna. Iberico ham legs hanging from the ceiling, vintage wine bottles adorning the wall, and a small corner television showing the UD Almeria football match. We squeezed in at the end of the bar, ordered “cerveza pequenos”, and then chose a tapa to match. With each drink you order, you get a tapa–or small plate of food–to accompany it. On this occasion, we sampled bits of octopus salad, various grilled meats, and cured Iberican ham–a specialty of Spain and Kent’s favorite.
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| Casa Puga |
The next day we decided we’d have a beach day. It was a bit windy and, while Kent and I like the beach, we’re not ones to lay around for too long. Beginning of May can still be a bit chilly in Southern Spain, so after about an hour, we were ready to move on (so much for a beach “day”). Walking along Playa Zapillo, a long promenade with different shops, cafes and beachside bars, we found one of Sara’s favorite spots, La Cabana del Tio Tom– a tapas restaurant that she visited regularly while studying abroad. The decor, menu and everything about it appeared unchanged from nine years ago. Huge plates of tapas were available on the cheap and, as always, a drink included. While we’d never recommend this place for its food alone, it is an amazing deal and an ideal spot to relax after a day at the beach.
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| Pan con papas y tomate |
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| Tio Toms! |
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| On top of Teteria Alemdina |
The next day–our last full day in Southern Spain–we made a last-minute decision to buy bus tickets into Granada. Granada is two hours away from Almeria, so we needed to wake early, grab a vending machine breakfast, and catch the early coach out of the city. The drive to Granada offered wondrous views of the Sierra Nevada mountain range and the Tabernas desert–a terrain very reminiscent of the American West. Interestingly, we learned that many Spaghetti Westerns were shot in this area, just north of Almeria, throughout the 1960’s and 70’s.
Granada itself is a picturesque town sitting beneath the snow capped Sierra Nevadas. It’s known for its stunning blend of natural and architectural beauty, most notably the iconic Alhambra–a massive palace and gardens perched atop a hill with pearl white buildings all around. Because of its unique aesthetic, Granada has long attracted artists and musicians, but it is also home to a large Roma/Gypsy community who’ve carved out cave-like homes in the hillside district of Sacromonte.
Arriving at Granada bus station, we quickly found a spot to enjoy a “cafe con leche” (coffee with milk) in front of the massive Cathedral of the Incarnation, a 16th century Baroque church which originally housed the tombs of Catholic monarchs Isabella and Ferdinand. Today, these tombs rest in the neighboring Royal Chapel of Granada. Grabbing tickets for admission to this Cathedral, we took an expedited self-tour before exiting out the back and making our way through Granada’s winding streets.
The streets of Granada, at first glance, appear to be for pedestrian use only, with many narrow lanes and curving steps, but unsuspecting tourists like us can frequently find a car trailing quietly behind them waiting to pass. It was among these crowded streets we found ourselves spending the rest of our day, climbing up to the frequently-visited Plaza de San Nicolas to enjoy our first view of the Alhambra, hiking up the steep hillside of Sacromonte, and eventually making our way into the famous Alhambra itself.
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| A good view for coffee |
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| Gardens at La Alhambra |
Climbing the fortresses circular staircase to the highest viewpoint, we took in one final, 360-degree view of this unique city before making our way back to the bus station and to Almeria. The next morning brought heavy rain showers so we took refuge in a trendy coffee shop, and packed our bags for a return flight to Manchester.
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| Typical Spain - a random festival in the street |
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| Taster plate for lunch |
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| Kent and his first proper paella |
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